Category Archives: yetis

Breaking News! 95% of Scientists Believe Yetis Exist

Scientists observe a yeti planking, which lends credibility to the theory the giant hominoids may go months at a time without a wifi connection and therefore unaware that planking is so five minutes ago.

An article in today’s Guardian reveals that 95% of scientists believe yetis exist and you should too, even if you don’t believe in science.

“I know they exist – I see them every day,” a conference participant, Robin Lynn, said by telephone from Kemerovo.

“There were also some tracks, but we’re not quite sure what to make of them,” a scientist verified.

So that’s it then. Next question?

***UPDATE*** Teaser Tuesday: Chamonix Adventure Film Festival 2011

climbing film

Corey Richards having an adventure in the film 'As It Happens'.

Wednesday, 24 August 9:00 p.m. 

***Free screening – Salle Olca, Les Houches  – 21:00***

Ever Last & The Love Letter – 4 + 14 min. “An insight into the life of Krissy Moehl, 2x UTMB women’s champion.”

http://vimeo.com/10052748

As It Happens – 16 min. “Renan Ozturk & Cory Richards attempt to establish a new technical alpine route on 6,498m Tawoche in Nepal.”

On a Marché Sous le Pôle – “Eight explorers and a husky are dropped 60kms from the geographic North Pole, in the middle of the Arctic Ocean. Their aim is to make the first filmed report from below the ice shelf.”

Mo’ beta at www.ChamonixAdventureFilm.net.

Friday, 19 August 7:00 p.m.

Dark Side of the Lens – moody 7-minute surf film.

Life Cycles – 47 min. of amazing cinematography and mountain bikes

Arctic Speed – 10 min. Exploring the Polar Circle on skis and by speed riding.

Dream World – 8 min. Documentary on free-runner Jason Paul

http://vimeo.com/25532494

The Wild Line – 20 min. Four speed riders, a mountain guide and a cameraman travel to China to attempt the first speed ride descent of 7546-metre Mustagh Ata.

Azadi Freedom – 27 min. This film takes a look at Kashmir in the wake of the violent militant insurgence of the 90s, and the current rise in tourism thanks to skiing.

Skateistan – 10 min. “Film telling the story of two young skateboarders and their search for escape from the brutalities of war through skating.”

The Argentine Project – 10 min. “Three friends taking a trip and hoping to create a film with one bike, two cameras, and a few words of Spanish.

Saturday, 20 August 7:00 p.m.

Panik in Baffin – 2 min. ***Chamonix Homegrown!*** “Four girls head to Baffin Island in the Arctic Circle in April 2011 to ski couloirs and explore unknown territory.

Feel the Hill – 17 min. “The multiple disciplines of longboarding and the sense of freedom that comes with the sport.”

WildWater – 31 min. “A visually stunning feast for the senses… a new kind of adventure film – one where image, sound and ideas trump all else.”

Kilian’s Quest – 30 min. “Kilian meets his long-time hero and inspiration, Bruno Brunod, and travels to Greece to attempt a record on Mount Olympus

Climate of Change – 86 min. “In this rich and inspiring documentary, director Brian Hill takes us around the world to find the ordinary people taking action in the fight to save our environment.

Sunday, 21 August 7:00 p.m.

Solitaire– 15 min. Ski vid with Chamonix’s ‘American Dave’ Rosenbarger, JP Auclair, Will Cardamone, Johnny Collinson,  Jacqui Edgerly, Kip Garre, Elyse Saugstad.

Eastern Rises – 39 min. “An epic fly fishing journey to Russia’s remote Kamchatka Peninsula. What we found… big, beautiful, mouse-crushing native rainbow trout, super kudzha and bigfoot in Russia’s far, far east.

Second Nature – 14 min. Guys on longboards, blue suits and beards. “Winner: Best Extreme Sports Film at the 2009 Mammoth Film Festival! Winner: Best Short Film at the 2010 X-Dance Action Sports Film Festival. Winner: Best Sports Film at the 2010 Sonoma International Film Festival. Winner: Best Adventure Sport film at the 5 Point Film Festival in Colorado.”

Moonflower – 2 min. ***Chamonix homegrown!*** Teaser for Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker’s film of their ballsy ascent of the Moonflower Buttress on Mt. Hunter in Alaska.

Summit 4 Kids – 15 min. “Laura Bohleber, Marja Persson and Giulia Monego attempt to summit and ski three of the highest mountains in the Peruvian section of the Andes to raise money for disadvantaged children living in the Peruvian city of Cajamarca.

Vertical Sailing – 50 min. “Nico & Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto take us on their latest climbing and sailing adventure to Greenland in search of virgin big walls. Nine new routes on six big walls earned them a Piolet d’Or award.”

Milner’s Waffle House – A to the K: a decade plus of mentalness and vegetables

Oh Lordy, here he goes again. Dan Milner waffling on about some more of his silly snowsliding shenanigans in completely ridiculous places. I mean seriously, isn’t the reason we all love Chamonix so much is because the shredding is so amazing here? And while the rest of the world is trying to figure out how they can quit their jobs, sell everything and move here, Desultory Dan is busy planning trips to … Macedonia?

Ah well, the good crew over at Le Vert will be doing their best to offset the damage with a special €10 plat du jour and a €15 menu but make sure you show up early because you definitely don’t want to be stuck in that place around 8:30 when the lights go down and the waffling begins. Unless of course, you love nothing more than mercilessly heckling a guy while he’s in the middle of some mad story about being kidnapped by pygmies, having tea with a yeti, or narrowly escaping a life-threatening attack by a bloodthirsty deer.

Of course there will also be the extraordinary photos of guys like Travis Rice, Jeremy Jones and Angie Wardell shredding the rad in places like Kashmir, Pakistan, Iceland and of course, Alaska. And a photo of a car and one or two of signs evidently. And if I was a bettin’ man, I’d lay odds he might even try to slip in some artsy fartsy photo of a tree as well. Just guessin’.

High Mountain Hijinks: Andreas Fransson, Morgan Sahlén, Couloir Jager

Andreas Fransson, Morgan Sahlén, Couloir Jager (TD+ 45˚-55˚/700m)

Videographer Bjarne Sahlén sent me this little video exactly a week ago today so I thought I’d celebrate this joyous anniversary by posting it. What the heck, that’s just the kind of guy I am.

Bjarne stalks Andreas Fransson and Morgan Sahlén as they descend the Jager on the coldest day of the year when it was -28˚C at the top of the Midi. Brrr… Keep your eyes peeled to see if you can spot the cameo appearance by Jon Bracey on his way up to climb the Carli-Chassagne (III 4. 1000m) on the north side of the Midi. Probably took him a good 20 minutes or so. Slacker.

Rare video footage of the Jäger yeti who some mistakenly believe is thus called due to local legend that he lives in a snow cave near the Couloir Jager when in fact the Jäger yeti carries this distinction due to the overwhelming number of sightings that occur after a big night out.

For those who exist outside the bubble, the Couloir Jager is located on the east face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) looker’s right of the Couloir Gervasutti. It was first skied on 7 March 1977 by Jacky Bessat. Anselme Baud describes it as 700m at 45˚-55˚. Right then, just another stroll in the park.

This is where I would have straight-lined it. Just sayin.

Morgan Sahlén taking the manly way down. Rockin’ the teles. Respect.

 

Fully dedicated. Bjarne Sahlén freezing his buns off to get the shot.

18e Piolets d’Or – 2010

Now we know you’re all proud about that super difficult problem you pulled at Les Gaillands last summer and despite all the spraying you’ve done down the Chambre 9 nobody seems to pay any attention to this achievement of yours which is clearly worthy of international recognition.

Well lucky for you my friend, The Piolets d’Or is kinda like mountaineering’s very own version of the Oscars except without all the glamorous movie stars, the bazillion dollar post parties or the hundreds of millions of viewers. OK, so it’s not really like the Oscars at all but the award is widely recognized as recognition of the most awe-inspiring achievements in alpinism over the course of the previous year. The award is presided over by the G.H.M. (Groupe Haute Montagne), editors of Vertical and Montagnes magazines and, starting this year, with help from journalists at the American Alpine Journal. Event organizers describe it thusly:

The Piolets d’Or event gathers together alpinists from many countries; active participants in the most remarkable ascents of the past year on every summit of the globe.

More than recognition for any one performance, the event celebrates the ethic, style and values which take inspiration from the true spirit of a rope party.

For the past 18 years, this international event has publicized the greatest ascents achieved in the mountains the world over, and given recognition to climbers of all nationalities for their individual or team ventures.

To put it in a nutshell the Piolets d’Or are awarded to exceptionally hard men putting up ludicrously difficult routes all for the sake of gettin’ her done. When you look at the lines these guys are climbing you’ll realize we should all be buying these guys multiple rounds of beers for shattering our ideas of physical and mental boundaries. Well, lo and behold we’ll get that chance when the Piolets d’Or rolls into Chamonix and Courmayeur next week.

The action begins on Wednesday, April 7th at 21:00 with the 1930’s film La Conquête des Cimes accompanied by a jazz improv group at Le Cinema Vox. The Courmayeur alternative will be a theater production La Conquista del Cervino performed by The Aosta Theatre Company at the Jardin de l’Ange.

Check out the complete schedule with full details at PioletsdOr.com.

Those of you who are far too enchanted by my lyrical prose to hyperlink

Reinhold Messner

away to learn the actual facts should know the program continues throughout the week and culminates with the presentation of a lifetime achievement award to some guy named Reinhold Messner in Courmayeur at the Cinema Palanoir.

On Saturday in Chamonix the fun and games start at 16:00 with a book fair and film screenings before the main event, the Piolet d’Or ‘Ascent of the Year’ Ceremony, gets underway at 21:00. At this time Piolets d’Or will be awarded to the ascents that most impress the distinguished panel of judges.

The criteria upon which the awards are based are:

– Style of ascent.
– Spirit of exploration: original (previously unclimbed) route and/or mountain, creative and innovative approach.
– Level of commitment and self-sufficiency.
– High level of technical ability required.
– Suitability of route in light of objective dangers.
– Efficient and sparing use of resources.
– Transparency regarding the use of these resources.
– Respect for people, climbing partners, members of other teams, porters and local agents.
– Respect for the environment.
– Respect for future generations of mountaineers by leaving them the possibility of enjoying the same kind of experiences and adventures.

The five nominees for the 18e Piolets d’Or were selected from a long list of 52 ascents by 116 alpinists in 14 countries. It should be noted that Yannick Graziano and Christian Trommsdorff withdrew their first ascent of the South Face of Nemjung from consideration. Trommsdorff is President of GHM and co-organizer of the Piolets d’Or.

And with that said … envelope please…

Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman – Chang Himal, Bullock-Houseman (M6, 1800m). Regular readers of the Insider will vividly remember our own gripping report on this incredible achievement. No? Really?! OK then, click here. 74 represent!

Chamonix's own Nick Bullock, Andy Houseman

Chang Himal (6802m) - Bullock-Houseman


Mikhail Mikhailov and Alexander Ruchkin
Gongga Peak, Carte Blance (6c free, mixed, 75˚ ice, 1100m)

Mikhail Mikhailov, Alexander Ruchkin

Gongga Peak (6134m) - Carte Blanche

Denis Urubko and Boris DedeshkoCho Oyu, Kazakh Dedeshko-Urubko (steep snow and ice, 6b, A2/A3, 2600m)

Boris Dedechko, Denis Urubko

Cho Oyu (8201m) – Kazakh Dedeshko Urubko

Jeb Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce NormandXuelian West, The Great White Jade Heist (ice 5, rock 5, M6, 2650m)

Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster, Bruce Normand

Xuelian West (6422m) – The Great White Jade Heist

Vitaly Gorelik and Gleb SokolovPic Pobeda, Sokolov/Gorelik (ED, 2400m)

Vitaly Gorelik, Gleb Sokolov

Brooklyn Decker - inexplicably overlooked for her contribution to alpinism.

Pic Pobeda (7439m) – Sokolov/Gorelik

Call of the Yeti

Many of you might have noticed quite the flurry NickMeekYetiof yeti activity in and around Chamonix recently. Whether it’s the result of all those pesky tourists infringing on their natural habitat or the sudden and cataclysmic fermeture of the alpine slide that has caused the shy but fun-loving man beasts to venture further afield remains to be seen. Whatever the case, noted yeti groupie, Nick Meek, is hard at work on his soon-to-be-published book, Call of the Yeti, featuring photo documentation of the rare beast.

I’m making it into an interesting little art piece actually. It’s going to feel like something you might find in the vaults of the British Museum. There’ll be a story about a fictitious explorer that has been tracking the yeti for years. [The medium is] hot metal printed on old bible paper. The entire thing will be in an old folder tied together with an old piece of twine. We should have it finished in a couple of months.

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