Category Archives: climbing

Roch Malnuit Gets Some Air Time

As you know, Roch Malnuit is a homeboy Chamonix slayer who’s been climbing, sliding and flying around these mountains since he was born. But what you might not be aware of is that his buddy Timothee Nalet thought it was about time Roch got a bit more air time – and we’re not talking about the kind that comes from hurling yourself off sheer rock faces – so he posted this sweet mini-documentary.

Oh yeah, and did I mention he’s an OG shredder as well? How about some first snowboard descent action on Mt Buet?

Want more? Swing by his website and see how Roch’s rollin’.

Advertisements

Expedition Update: Andreas Fransson Skis Sajama – Highest Peak in Bolivia

“The worst climb-to-ski ratio I have ever done in my whole life.” -Andreas Fransson

OK, watching this video makes me feel a little better about the lack of snow in Chamonix. I mean hey, at least we’ve got great climbing weather and no blowing sand.

But despite the sandstorm and ghetto snow conditions, we’ve got to throw horns out to Andreas for climbing and skiing “6500-whatever-meter” Sajama, Bolivia’s highest Peak.

Bjarne Sahlen

So much for the summit dance...

And as far as adventures go, this is exactly what it’s all about: discovering new places, interacting with different cultures, learning a language, traveling with the locals (70+ hour bus ride!), seeing and trying new things. With all this as part of the package you don’t need perfect snow to make it all worth it. Keep charging, boys!

Lions in Winter – TeCrew Summits & Skis Satopanth

Florent, Remi and Alex on the summit of Satopanth.

Great news from TeCrew’s Suraksita Yatra Expedition – SUMMIT!!!!

The crew are back in Delhi after three weeks in the Garhwal Himalaya of India.

Satopanth (7075m), Garhwal Himalaya

During that time Florent Gex, Remi Peschier and Alex Marchesseau pulled off the first winter ascent, the first ski descent, and the first monoski descent of 7075m Satopanth.

“Nous sommes tres heureux, on a bien maigri et on soigne nos doigts qui ont souffert du froid.”

Florent, Remi and Alex will soon be leaving Delhi and head south to Mount Abu in Rajasthan for the second part of their project. And if you’re wondering what happened to Romain whom we initially reported as being a part of the expedition, he was unable to make the trip due to visa problems.

Envoi du gros!

Le Linceul, Grands Jorasses

The Shroud, Grandes Jorasses

Le Linceul (aka The Shroud), Les Grandes Jorasses, north face.

Lots of questions recently about the Linceul and as it turns out, the good crew over at TVMountain.com have recently uploaded another one of their outstanding vids, which covers the route. As an added bonus, it also stars one of my climbing buddies, Jean Mi.

The Shroud, Grandes Jorasses

750m from base of the route to the shoulder of the Grandes Jorasses.

The Shroud, Grandes Jorasses

1200m from glacier to summit.

The Shroud, Grandes Jorasses

IV, 4, 80˚, D+/TD-

I also found this other vid that gives folks outside the valley a good idea of what the approach is like.

The Shroud, Grandes Jorasses

The Shroud, Grandes JorassesThe Shroud, Grandes jorasses

Grandes Jorasses

Photo and route info: http://www.camptocamp.org (click to enlarge)

Thanks to TVmountain.com for their seemingly endless stream of videos depicting life in and around Chamonix.

Swedes Boost New Route(?) Up North Face of Grandes Jorasses’ Pointe Young

At the end of September, Olov Isaksson and Michael Rüter completed what they reckon might be a new route on Pointe Young on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses.

In his blog post, Isaksson explains:

“Michael and I were back at the Jorasses planning to either have a go at the Bonatti/Vaucher or a line that I’d spotted on Pointe Young last year. I couldn’t find the route in any topos but it looked like it could go.”

“Conditions were generally great but with some longer sections of thin unprotectable ice. About 400 meters up (where the routes splits into Knez-Skok [1980, 4c, A1, 55°, 750m] & Desécures/Robach) we continued straight up through a system of narrow steeper gullies with thin ice. After ca 350 additional meters we topped out at a notch on the NNW spur of Pointe Young. … We simul-climbed the route in 5 pitches encountering no difficulties higher than M5. It goes without saying that we found no traces of previous ascents but that can of course not be excluded.”

North face of Pointe Young, Les Grandes Jorasses. Photo: Ben Tibbetts

In the end, it’s refreshing to see climbers like Rüter and Isaksson with the unpretentious attitude of the increasingly rare, gentlemen alpinist. Their knowledge of the face leads them to ask about the possibility of, rather than claim, a new route, and draw a zen-like conclusion about its importance in the overall experience. Bravo.

“Who can be naive enough to believe that they’ve climbed a new line on the north face of Grandes Jorasses in 2011? Still, whether a line has been undocumentedly climbed or not doesn’t change the adventure and fun of heading up into the unknown.”

To see more photos and read the full blog post, go to www.olovisaksson.blogspot.com.

Chamonix’s Te Crew Off For a Hot Cuppa Alpine Altruism in India

Chamonix Te Crew

Satopanth, Garhwal Himalaya

Chamonix’s Te Crew has headed out for a two-month expedition to India. The team includes Alex Marchesseau, Florent Gex, Remi Peschier and Romain Aubrun.

Chamonix Te Crew

Alex Marchesseau

The team’s mission is two-fold, first of which is a ski and monoski descent of the 55˚ northwest arête of 7075m Satopanth in the Garhwal Himalaya. The expedition involves (got your Google Earth ready?) a 3-day approach from the village of Gangotri (3000m) up the Gangotri glacier, past Shivling to their base camp at 4800 meters. From there they will place Camp 1 at 5500m, C2 at 6000m and C3 at 6400m.

Chamonix Te Crew

Florent Gex

The second half of the expedition is to head south to the Mt Abu climbing school in Rajasthan with a load of climbing gear. Their goal is to contribute the gear and their efforts to the climbing school which helps underprivileged children from Mumbai’s suburbs.

After traveling in several third world countries, Te Crew is re-interpreting the idea of expeditions in third world countries and it is

Chamonix Te Crew

Remi Peschier

their plan to do their best to help improve living conditions in the countries that welcome them. Nice one, gents.

Satopanth is located in Gangotri National Park near the western border of Nepal. Apparently it’s the source of the Ganges river – cool.

Mount Abu (1722m) is in the Mount Abu Wildlife Sanctuary in southern Rajasthan about

Chamonix Te Crew

Romain Aubrun

100 km west of Udaipur. It is a highly-symbolic place where Hindus go to pray at the many temples.

Te Crew is an organization of young Chamoniards who are passionate about all things alpine. Their purpose is to help young people achieve their alpine objectives and to look beyond their cultural horizons.

Garhwal HimalayaThe crew plans to be back in Chamonix on November 7th. Follow their blog at http://www.suraksitayatra.blogspot.com/.

Shout out to Millet for their continued support of Te Crew.

Chamonix Climbing, Skiing and General Irresponsibility, Colin Haley Style

Powder for breakfast.

Ice for lunch

Rock for dinner.

Internationally-renowned triathlete Colin Haley getting his fill in Chamonix. And big shout out once again to alpine filmer extraordinnaire Bjarne Sahlén. Sometimes I’m just as blown away by the skills behind the camera as in front of them.