La Classica Moderna: Balmasse, Pou & Pou’s New Route on Brouillard Pillar

"Climbing the perfect Mont Blanc granite was a pleasure. There is no place in the world with granite quite like this one." -Iker Pou, PlanetMountain.com

OK, I’m a little off the back here but definitely worth posting is that back in August Hervé Barmasse (Italian), Iker Pou and his brother Eneko (Basque) established a new route on the left side of the Brouillard Pillar.

The new route, La Classica Moderna, is around 350 meters, 11 pitches, 6c max, no aid, no bolts.

La Classica Moderna, Brouillard Pillar, Mont Blanc – 350m / 6c

The team emphasizes that the name of their route refers to the classic style in which they climbed including completing the route to the summit of Mont Blanc.

Photo: Damiano Levati

In an interview with PlanetMountain.com, Hervé states,

“Reaching the summit of Mont Blanc after [climbing] the Brouillard makes all the difference. Above all, if you’re opening a new route [you endure] far more hours trudging uphill with heavy sacks, as well as the risk of violent storms which can surprise you late in the day. You must have diverse abilities: a good set of lungs and the desire to put in a lot of effort as well as knowing how to climb and progress up mixed terrain. Furthermore, when you establish a route a bivy is practically an obligatory stop-off. On the other hand, abseiling down means being safely off the mountain in less than two hours in the comfort of Rifugio Eccles without a worry in the world. [Our] ascent respected the philosophy and ethics of the first ascentionists of this pillar – Bonatti and Oggioni who climbed the Rosso right to the top of Mont Blanc – who couldn’t but finish on the summit. [We did this] despite knowing full-well that more than half of the [climbers] who established new routes on the Brouillard abseiled off.”

"It's a spectacular face and, perhaps due to fatigue or too heavy rucksacks, but I imagined the ridge which leads to the summit of Mont Blanc to be much easier." -Iker Pou, PlanetMountain.com.

The route is the second stage in Barmasse’s ‘Exploring the Alps’ trilogy where he “…wants to rediscover alpinism on [three great] peaks in the Alps.” The first leg was a solo climb of the Matterhorn’s Picco Muzio route in April.

Click here to read the full interview on PlanetMountain.com.

"Spectacular, the most beautiful bivy we've ever had." -Iker Pou, PlanetMountain.com

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2 responses to “La Classica Moderna: Balmasse, Pou & Pou’s New Route on Brouillard Pillar

  1. Pingback: La Classica Moderna: Balmasse, Pou & Pou’s New Route on Broulliard Pillar » Chamo...

  2. Pingback: La Classica Moderna: Balmasse, Pou & Pou’s New Route on Brouillard Pillar » Chamo...

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