65m 8b Trad at Céüse by Arnaud Petit

climbingArnaud Petit is getting bored with all the easy climbing out his back door so he decided to step up and send Céüse testpiece Black Bean … on his own gear.

“Climbing the Biographie wall and reaching the plateau of Céüse using my own protection has become an obsession for me this spring. I prepared for a whole month: first looking for gear placements and hoping there were enough, then testing them and finally choosing a minimal rack that wouldn’t be too heavy.

Then came the physical and mental training for the sections where I absolutely could not fall because not all of the gear was 100% and there were times when I was 15 meters above my last piece. And also because Black Bean  is not an easy route for me. To feel ready for the try and then going for it. Taking the first step, as always, is definitely the hardest part.”

I have to say that I’m relieved to hear Arnaud say this because I’ve been having the same problem with that first step on 8b routes. Go figure.

Before you get stuck into the video be sure to hit 720p, go for full screen, and be prepared to get schooled in what it takes to climb 65 meters of 8b max as well as the nuances of protecting a 30-meter whipper.

11 placements in 65 meters.


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